纺织羊毛—蚕丝.pptx

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1、Silk蚕丝第1页/共36页1Introduction介绍2Silk amount in China&world 蚕丝产量分布3Varieties品种4Characteristics特点5SilkwormGrowth&Cocoon蚕的发育与蚕茧的形成6Silkmanufacturing蚕茧的工艺加工7Silkwearproperty蚕丝的服用性能第2页/共36页1 Introduction 介绍Silkisanaturalproteinfiber.fine,horny,translucent,yellowishfiberproducedbythesilkworminmakingitscocoo

2、nandcoveredwithsericin,aprotein.蚕丝是一种天然蛋白质纤维，纤细，透明，截面呈不规则三角形，色泽微黄，是蚕的腺分泌物吐出后凝固形成线状长线，外层包覆丝胶。第3页/共36页2 Silk amount in China&world 蚕丝产量分布Domestic:zhujiang Taihu Chengdu 国内分布：珠江 太湖 成都第4页/共36页2 Silk amount in China&world 蚕丝产量分布International:China India Uzbekistan Brazil 世界分布：中国 印度 乌兹别克斯坦 巴西77%15%第5页/共36

3、页1)、Homesilk:Mulberrysilk家蚕丝：桑蚕丝；2)、Widesilk:Tussahsilk,Castor-oilplantsilk,cassavasilk野蚕丝：柞蚕丝、蓖麻蚕丝、木薯蚕丝等。3Varieties品种：第6页/共36页Theshimmeringappearanceforwhichsilkisprizedcomesfromthefiberstriangularprism-likestructure,whichallowssilkclothtorefractincominglightatdifferentangles.桑蚕丝纵向平直光滑，截面呈不规则的三角形，使

4、丝织物折射外观色泽。Tussahsilkiscoarser,flatter,yellowerfilamentthantheMulberrysilk.柞蚕丝纵向表面粗燥，扁平，色泽比桑蚕丝黄。4Characteristics特点：第7页/共36页1）Growth:eggLarvaPupamoth蚕的发育：经过卵、幼虫、蛹和成虫（蛾）四个阶段5SilkwormGrowth&Cocoon蚕的发育与蚕茧的形成第8页/共36页2）茧的形成Cocoon茧衣（外层）：蚕吐丝时，最初吐出的凌乱的丝缕，成为茧的蓬松外廓。（丝缕细，强度差，丝胶含量多，绢纺原料）茧层（中层）：茧衣里面，丝缕绕成丝圈，结构紧密，排列

5、规则，是丝的主体。（丝较粗，强力好）蛹（内层）：吐丝将近终了时叠合成的疏松层。（丝最细，发脆，丝胶含量少，绢纺原料）Outside:Lowtenacity,moresericinMiddle:Goodtenacity,GoodsilkInside:Crispy,Lowsericin,第9页/共36页1)Insilkmanufacture,thefirstoperationisreeling.Thecocoons,havingbeensortedforcolorandtexture,aresteamedorplacedinwarmwatertosoftenthenaturalgum.eachco

6、coonmaygivefrom610915moffilament,Thisiscalledrawsilk.第一步是缫丝。蚕茧按色泽、质地分类挑选，利用热水使茧丝上的丝胶适当膨润和部分溶解，从而使茧丝分离下来形成生丝。每个茧可生成610-915m长丝。6Silkmanufacturing蚕茧的工艺加工第10页/共36页6 Silk manufacturing 蚕茧的工艺加工2)Thenextstep,calledthrowing,ispreparingtherawsilkfortheloombytwistinganddoublingittotherequiredstrengthandthickn

7、ess.第二步是捻丝。生丝经合并以达到一定要求的强度和纤度，成为丝纺原料。第11页/共36页6 Silk manufacturing 蚕茧的工艺加工3)Finishingprocessesarevaryingandimportant.Thesilkisboiledoffinsoapsudstoremovegumandprepareitfordyeing.Scouringorboilingcauseslossofweight,Dyeingmaybedoneintheyarnorinthepiece.后加工很重要。生丝在皂液中煮沸脱去丝胶形成熟丝以备染色。该工序会使丝纤维丢失重量。也可对纱线或织物

8、染色。第12页/共36页7 Silk wear property 蚕丝的服用性能SILKgarmentsareprizedfortheirluster,wearabilityandcomfort.Silkabsorbsmoisture,whichmakesitcoolinthesummerandwarminthewinter.Becauseofitshighabsorbency,itiseasilydyedinmanydeepcolors.丝绸服装吸湿、透气、有光泽，服用性能好，冬暖夏凉。因其对染料的高吸收性，很容易染成各种深色。Mostsilkfabricscanbehandwashed.S

9、ilkdriesquickly.Silkisalsoweakenedbysunlight.Silkmayyellowandfadewiththeuseofahighironsetting.Pressclothsandasteamironarerecommended.Silkanbedamagedbyhighalkalidetergentsandchlorinebleach.大多数丝绸服装必须手洗，洗后易干，避免日晒。因为丝绸在高温下会变黄褪色，应垫布熨烫或蒸汽熨烫。丝绸织物在强碱和含氯漂白剂中易受到损伤。第13页/共36页Wool羊毛第14页/共36页1Introduction介绍2Woola

10、mount羊毛产量3Structure形态结构4WoolClassify羊毛分类5QualityandGrade品质和等级6Processingwool羊毛加工7Characteristicsofwool羊毛的特性第15页/共36页MohairhairCamelhairLamahairYakhairCashmerehair1 Introduction 介绍：第16页/共36页1 Introduction 介绍：Wool,appliedtothesoft,curlyfibersobtainedchieflyfromthefleeceofsheep,andusedextensivelyintext

11、ilemanufacturing.羊毛是一种柔软、卷曲的纤维，主要取自于绵羊，广泛应用于纺织工业。第17页/共36页2 Wool amount 羊毛产量AustraliaChinaNewZealandChinaisNo.2Top3TotalAmountinworldFleece94.5Semi-fleece51.7Coarse85TenKton第18页/共36页3Structure:形态结构：1Squamastructure2Cortexstructure3Medullastructure羊毛由鳞片层、皮质层、髓质层组成。第19页/共36页4WoolClassify羊毛分类(1)细毛fleec

12、e长毛Long半细毛semi-fleece粗毛coarse改良毛Improvedwool土种毛Chinawool羊毛粗细羊种品系澳大利亚毛Australiawool新西兰毛NewZealandwool外毛第20页/共36页5 Quality and Grade 品质和等级Thevalueofwoolonthemarketdependsprimarilyonfinenessandlengthoffiber.Strength,elasticity,amountofcrimp,uniformity,dirt,vegetablematter.arealsoconsidered.羊毛品质主要取决于毛纤维

13、的细度，长度，同时包括强力，弹性，卷曲度和均匀度，杂质等。第21页/共36页5 Quality and Grade 品质和等级1)RangerforAverageFiberDiameter(micrometers).支数毛，按羊毛平均细度评定70支（18.120.0m）、66支（20.121.5m）、64支（21.623.0m）60支（23.125.0m）2)Rangerforcoarsewoolcontent.级数毛，按羊毛的粗腔毛含量评定。一级、二级、三级、四级、五级。第22页/共36页6 Processing wool（1）羊毛加工Thefirststepinprocessingwool

14、takesplaceonthefarmorranchwithshearing,usuallyinthespringtimejustbeforelambing.thenthebuyerstojudgethegrade.第一步是在牧场剪毛，通常选在春季母羊产羔前，然后定等。Nextstepiswashingthewooltoremovegrease（unrefinedlanolin）,vegetablematterandotherimpurities.第二步洗毛，以去除油脂,植物质和其它杂质。第23页/共36页6 Processing wool (2)羊毛加工Cleanwoolsfrombatch

15、esorlotsareblended-mixedmechanicallyatthisstage.之后，洗净毛可按批混合后用于后加工。Eachwoolfiberabsorbsdyessodeeplythatdyeingatanyprocessingstage.每根羊毛纤维在各道工序中都能深深地吸附染料。Stock-dyed原毛染色Yarn-dyed纱线染色Piece-dyed面料染色第24页/共36页6 Processing wool (3)羊毛加工Thecardingprocesspassesthecleananddrywoolthroughasystemofwirerollerstostra

16、ightenthefibersandremoveanyremainingvegetablematter，createnarrowcontinuousropesoffibercalled“slivers”.粗梳工序：干净、干燥的羊毛通过粗梳工序，以除去残余的植物质，拉伸纤维，生成毛条。第25页/共36页7Characteristicsofwool羊毛的特性1)ResilienceandDurability回弹性和耐用性Eachwoolfiberisamolecularcoil-springmakingthefiberremarkablyelastic.Themolecularcrimp,alon

17、gwiththe3-dimensionalfiber,whichallowswoolfiberstobestretchedupto50%(wet)30%(dry).andbouncebacktooriginalshapewhenstressisreleased.每根毛纤维分子按三维结构排列，赋于其显著的回弹性，湿态下50伸长，干态下30伸长，且可迅速回弹。Theflexibilityofthewoolfibermakeitmoredurable.Awoolfibercanbebentbackonitselfmorethan20,000timeswithoutbreaking.羊毛的高延伸性使之

18、更耐用。经20，000次弯曲而不折断。第26页/共36页7Characteristicsofwool羊毛的特性2)FiberAbsorbency吸湿性Woolcaneasilyabsorbupto30%ofitsweightinmoisturewithoutfeelingdamporclammy.Itcancreatesabalanceinmoistureconditionandprotectthebodyinbothcoldandwarmconditions.羊毛可吸收自身重量30的水份而不感到潮湿；可在潮湿环境中平衡自身，从而使身体冬暖夏凉。Woolkeepsalayerofdryairn

19、exttotheskinwhichhelpstoholdinbodyheat.羊毛织物可在皮肤表面形成一层干燥膜，有利于控制皮肤表面温度。第27页/共36页7Characteristicsofwool羊毛的特性3)Feltsnaturally羊毛的缩绒性Thephysicalstructureoftheouterscalylayerofthewoolfibercontributestowoolsuniquepropertyoffelting.羊毛表面的鳞片层使之具有独一无二在缩绒性。Underthemechanicalactionofagitation.Frictionandpressurei

20、nthepresenceofheatandmoisture,thescalesontheedgesofwoolfibersinterlock.羊毛在湿热作用下，经机械外力挤压搅动，鳞片层相互摩擦而紧密纠缠，形成缩绒性。第28页/共36页7Characteristicsofwool羊毛的特性4）Others其它Woolisalsodirtresistant,flameresistant,and,inmanyweaves,resistswearandtearing.Basically,Woolenfabricshaveasoftfeelandfuzzysurface,verylittleshine

21、orsheen.羊毛耐脏，抗燃，许多羊毛机织物抗磨损，抗撕裂。羊毛织物手感柔软，表面有纤细绒毛，光泽较少。Blankets,scarves,coating,andsomefabricsareconsideredwoolens.theyarenothotterthanpolyesterbutactuallycoolerforitsbreathes,unlikepolyester.羊毛织物应用于毯子，围巾，外衣及各种面料。事实上特殊编织工艺的羊毛面料比聚酯面料更凉爽、吸汗。第29页/共36页7 Characteristics of wool 羊毛的特性5)Disadvantage:Attacked

22、bymothsifnottreated,shrinksifsubjectedtoheat,moisture,andagitation,canbedamagedbystrongalkalidetergentsandchlorinebleach,shouldbedrycleanedalthoughsomewashabletypeareavailable.羊毛易被虫蛀，加热、潮湿、搅动时会收缩，不能用碱性或含氯漂白剂洗涤。建议温水手洗。Iliketoeatwool第30页/共36页Property Comparison of Wool&silk 羊毛&蚕丝 特性比较VS第31页/共36页纤维种类ca

23、tegory纵向形态portrait横截面形态Crosssection绵羊毛wool鳞片大多呈环状或瓦状近似圆形或椭圆形山羊绒Cashmere鳞片大多呈环状，边缘光滑，间距较大，张角较小多为较规则的圆形桑蚕丝Mulberrysilk平滑不规则三角形柞蚕丝Tussahsilk平滑扁平的不规则三角形，内部有毛细孔APPEARANCE外观第32页/共36页纤维品种category断裂强度（N/tex）Tenacity断裂伸长率(%)Elongation初始模量（N/tex）Initialmodulus干态dry湿态wet干态dry湿态wet绵羊毛Wool0.09-0.150.07-0.1425-35

24、25-502.12-3.00家蚕丝silk0.26-0.350.19-0.2515-2527-334.41Physicalproperty机械性能第33页/共36页Handle&Eyeballing各种天然纤维手感目测比较纤维品种Category羊毛Wool蚕丝Silk手感Handle弹性好，有暖感Goodelasticity柔软、光滑，有冷感Velvet,Cold长度(mm)Length20200，离散大很长Long细度()Finesse10401030含杂类型matters草屑、粪尿、汗渍、油脂等Grass,Dung,Sweat,Grease尿黄、簇枝等Stale,Grass第34页/共36页Thanks for attention!第35页/共36页感谢您的观看！第36页/共36页