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1、 Bodice Variations Draping For Fashion Design BodicesCONENTS01 Style analysis02 Preparation for the dress form and the muslin03 Drape the bodice 04 Marking-Trueing-Checking fit05 Completed muslin patternBodice Variation includes the variation of the neckline,the armhole line and the dart,the most im
2、portant part is the variation of the dart.The variation of the dart includes the variation of the dart location,the number and the shape.This unit will introduce the following dart variations:single dart,multiple darts,asymmetrical dart,and the surplice front.The single dart can be located at any bo
3、dy part,eg.the center front,the side seam,the waistline,the armhole,the shoulder line and the neckline.The single French dart will be demonstrated here to show the basic steps for the draping of the single dart.01 The French dart originate at the lower area of side seam and terminate at the point cl
4、ose to the Apex.(the dart radiate from the Apex)02 The bodice is shaped with a single dart,the crosswise grain is not straight at bustline level,the dart is quite deep.1.Style analysis01 Preparation of dress form:Mark the location of the French dart on the dress form2.Preparation of dress form and m
5、uslin 2.Preparation of dress form and muslin 02 Preparation of muslin：Draw the center front line,the bust line and Apex on the muslin,preparing the muslin the same way as for the basic bodice.3.Drape the bodice with muslin01 Pin the muslin at the bust point and center front.02 Smooth the muslin,drap
6、e the neckline,the shoulder line and the armhole.03 Smooth the muslin from the under arm point to the location of the French dart.04 Drape the waistline:smooth the muslin from center front to the side waist point,slash,leave some ease at the waistline.05 Drape the French dart:smooth the muslin from
7、the side waist point upward at the side seam line,bringing all fullness into a dart at the designed dart location,and pin the dart into place.4.Marking,Trueing and checking for fit01 Marking：Mark the neckline,the shoulder line,the armhole,the dart and the waistline.02 Determine the length of the dar
8、t：The dart vanishing point is located about 2.5 cm from the bust point,mark it with a pin.03 Draw the lines：Take off the bodice,mark the dart vanishing point；Connect the neckline,the shoulder line,the armhole and the waistline Draw the dart.Pin the dart and connect the side seam.04 Add seam allowance:add seam allowance,trim away the excess muslin.05 Check fit:Pin the bodice back to the dress form,check fit,and make adjustment as necessary.5.The completed muslin pattern
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